A plain outline of the steps we follow, what we check before touching a vehicle, and where we draw the line so you know what to expect from a conversion or a repair.
Most of these come up during the first call or in emails after someone reads a walkthrough. Here is how we usually answer them.
Not always. If you are only adding a bed platform and a few storage boxes, you can leave the original panels in place. A full strip makes sense when you are running new wiring, adding insulation, or dealing with rust. Our method page walks through how to decide based on what you actually plan to do.
A simple weekend setup, like a fold-out bed and curtain rails, can be done in two days. A full conversion with a slide-out kitchen, electrical system, and gas installation usually takes several weekends spread over a few months. We recommend starting small and living in the Kombi a few times before committing to a bigger build.
A decent drill, a jigsaw, a rivet gun, and a basic socket set cover most of the work. You do not need a full workshop. For electrical work, add a multimeter and a crimping tool. If you are cutting marine plywood, a circular saw with a straight edge guide helps, but a jigsaw with a fine blade works too.
Yes, if you follow the basic rules. Use a certified regulator and hose, fit a gas drop-out hole at the bottom of the cabinet, and never run the cooker while driving. Many owners prefer cooking outside under an awning, which keeps the cabin free of fumes and makes cleaning easier.
Good ventilation matters more than insulation in a South African summer. A roof vent or a pair of opening windows creates a cross-breeze that helps at night. Reflective window covers also make a noticeable difference when you park in the sun for a few hours.
Look for rust in the floor pans, the wheel arches, and around the window seals. Check the condition of the wiring harness, especially in older models where insulation can crack. Take it for a test drive and listen for unusual noises from the gearbox. A solid body is worth more than a fresh paint job.
If your question is not covered here, the help section has more detail on specific topics like electrical setups and route planning.
Every guide, checklist and rig story on this site follows the same loose process. It keeps things honest, repeatable and useful for someone who actually sleeps in their Kombi.
Start with the model, year and your real plans. A weekend camper needs different advice than a full overland build, and the answer changes depending on whether you have a Bay Window or a modern T6.
Whether it is a conversion layout or a driving route, we map out the steps in order. That means measuring the boot space, checking what electrical load you actually need, or marking gravel sections worth the detour.
Not every idea survives contact with a real Kombi. We check clearances, run the wiring numbers, and confirm campsites have the facilities we mention before anything gets published.
No fluff, no showpiece talk. You get the honest version: what worked, what broke, what we would do differently, and the tools or parts that made the job easier.
Every guide ends with something you can use on the weekend. A printable trip prep list, a wiring diagram, or a simple cutting list for the slide-out kitchen.
If a route has a washed-out bridge or a campsite changes management, we update the guide. Reader stories and corrections keep the advice current for the next person heading out.
Want to see the process in action? Browse the use cases or check what a typical guide covers before you commit to a project.
How the work happens
Every conversion we document follows the same honest path. No polished showpieces, just a Kombi that gets used. Here is the order we work in, with the milestones that actually matter.
Week 1-2
We start by looking at what you actually have. Rust in the usual spots, the state of the wiring, how the engine behaves when cold. This is where we decide if the project is a weekend fix or a longer commitment. No rose-tinted promises here.
Week 3-5
Interior panels come out, and we get a clear view of the metal underneath. Welding patches where needed, treating surface rust, and sealing the floor before any insulation goes in. This stage is slow, but it is the difference between a Kombi that lasts and one that leaks.
Week 6-8
This is where we plan the layout on paper first. A simple 12V setup with a second battery, a fuse box that makes sense, and proper gas lines with certified fittings. We test everything twice before the interior goes back in. Safety is not the exciting part, but it is the part that keeps you sleeping soundly.
Week 9-12
Marine plywood gets cut, edges get sealed, and the bed platform goes in with enough storage underneath for a weekend's worth of gear. We keep the design simple so that if something breaks on the road, you can fix it with basic tools. The last step is a test night in the driveway before the first real trip.
We do not rush the curing time on paint or sealant, and we do not skip the test drive that includes gravel roads and a steep pass. A conversion is only finished when it has been loaded with real luggage and driven for a few hundred kilometres. That is the standard we hold every build to.